Lake Como has some of the most spectacular views in Europe and in summer it is also genuinely hot, genuinely busy, and if you're staying in the town itself, fairly limited on things to do. The real experience here is about moving between neighbouring villages: Moltrasio, Cernobbio, Laglio, and others, discovering bakeries, coffee shops, and boutiques as you go. A pool is not optional in July and August - it is essential. If your accommodation doesn't have one, the lidos are a must. Having been to Lake Como several times now with my children, this guide is a round up of everything we love and would recommend to a friend.
Where to stay
Mandarin Oriental, Lake Como
One of the most polished hotels on the lake, with a serious spa, beautiful pool and the kind of service that makes a family stay memorable. Worth booking a lake-view room, the views alone justify the rate.
Passalacqua, Moltrasio
Voted the world's best boutique hotel two years running, Passalacqua is a restored 18th-century villa with only 24 rooms, a pool terrace, and a level of detail and service that is genuinely hard to find anywhere. Children of all ages are welcome and the property offers kids' activities including cooking classes and water sports, though the terrain is hilly so bear that in mind with very young children. Book well in advance.
Air BnB
Our family's first Air Bnb stay was in Lake Como and we had an incredible time. You can often get much more out of an AirBnB stay versus a hotel, given the rates in Lake Como soar during peak season. We managed to find a villa located on the lake, with breathtaking views, an outdoor pool and close access to a nearby village. We cooked everyday, set-up cozy dinners during sunset and paid a fraction of the price versus one of the lake hotels. Highly recommend.
Where to eat
Brillo Osteria
A contemporary small plates restaurant doing Italian fusion rather than traditional classics. A good pick if you want something more interesting than a standard lakeside trattoria. A personal favourite. Order lots, the dishes are small and it's worth trying everything.
Teatro
The go-to for gluten-free pizza. A great option when your doing some shopping in the city centre of Como.
Figli di Fiori
A charming, pretty spot that earns its place on the list for atmosphere and food in equal measure.
Bancone
A Mexican restaurant on the lake - unexpected, and genuinely good. A useful option when the children have had enough pasta for one holiday.
Harry's Bar
The lakeside setting makes this one a must-try. A great choice for a longer lunch when the view is the point as much as the food.
La Finestra
My personal favourite pick - the food is phenomenal as are the views. The menu is firmly Italian but with a wide variety of more interesting options with incredible ingredients.
Gelato Rosseti
The best gelato on the lake. Non-negotiable.
Onda
Noteworthy for the playground attached - a practical choice if you have young children who need to move between courses.
La Specialità, Milan
Technically a day-trip recommendation rather than a Como entry, but Milan is close enough to make it worthwhile, and La Specialità is one of the best spots in the city for a proper sit-down lunch.
Things to do
Private boat tour
The single best way to see the lake - hire a private boat for a few hours and move between villages at your own pace. Book ahead in peak season.
Villa del Balbianello, Lenno
One of the most iconic villas on the lake and a genuine must-visit, particularly for families with children who know their Star Wars. The terrace and gardens served as the secret wedding location for Anakin Skywalker and Padmé Amidala in Attack of the Clones, and the villa also featured in Casino Royale. Managed by FAI and open mid-March to end of December, closed Mondays and Wednesdays. Book tickets in advance, it sells out in peak season.
Day trip to Milan
An hour from Como by car or train, and worth building into a longer stay. A full day or half day works well with children who are old enough to manage a city at pace.
Lake Como Adventure Park
A good half-day activity for children who need to burn energy, with climbing and outdoor course options suited to various ages.
Jungle Raider Park Xtreme
A more intense adventure park option, better suited to older children and those who want something with more challenge.
Gelato-making class
A hands-on class where children learn to make authentic Italian gelato from scratch, typically running around 90 minutes and finishing with tasting what they've made. A good option for a slower morning or when the heat makes outdoor activity less appealing. La Cultura del Gelato is a well-regarded operator worth looking into.
Lido di Moltrasio
A well-kept lido with lake swimming and good facilities - the right call for families who want a proper outdoor water day without relying solely on a hotel pool.
Heaven's Gate, Varenna
One of the most photographed viewpoints on the entire lake, on the eastern shore in the village of Varenna. Worth the trip for the view alone, though Varenna itself is a beautiful village and merits an hour or two of exploration.
A practical note on summer
If you are visiting in July or August: go early to popular spots, take the boat rather than the road wherever possible (the lakeside roads are narrow and traffic in peak season is slow), and plan the middle of the day around water. The heat is real and the town has limited shade. The villages are cooler and more interesting than the main town, and the lidos are well set up for exactly the kind of long, unhurried afternoon that Lake Como does best. Most of the hotels do not allow non-guests during peak seasons to use amenities like the pool, and restaurants at hotels go quickly to guests, so book well in advance if you want to try some of the infamous restaurants at Villa D'este and Passalacqua.
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