Stepping off the plane in Rovaniemi in December feels like stepping into Narnia. Everything is white. There are more reindeers than people. The air hurts your face a little. And there is this immediate and accute, indescribable realisation that you’re about to embark on a holiday of a lifetime.
The idea was planted casually one April night over dinner with friends who had done Lapland with their young kids a few years prior and still had not got over the magic. And it hit me: if we were going to do Santa properly, not mall-Santa, not theme-park-Santa - there was a very specific window in which this had to happen.
What I didn’t know then was that April planning for a December Lapland trip is not early, it’s barely on time. By the time we started locking things in, many of the best experiences already had limited availability for a group of our large size. Lapland in December is not niche. It is very much a thing.
We only had three days and within those three days, we crammed in more than ten activities - some magical, some exhausting, some I’d repeat in a heartbeat and some I’d skip next time. This is everything I wish someone had told me before we went.
Where to Stay (and Why It Matters More Than You Think)
Arctic Light Hotel
If you want to be right in the city centre, this is considered one of the best options. It’s practical, well-located and perfect if you need to pop out for last-minute thermals you forgot to pack (the weather is between -10 to -20 and you will forget something). Most activity operators pick up from nearby, which makes mornings easier and trust me, mornings in Lapland with kids and all those layers are no joke. That said, it didn’t feel magical to me. Comfortable, yes. Memorable, no. I wouldn’t stay here again, but I would recommend it to anyone prioritising convenience over atmosphere.
Arctic TreeHouse Hotel
This is where Lapland starts to feel like Lapland. Elevated cabins, forest views, that quiet cinematic stillness you imagine when you picture the Arctic. If you want your accommodation to feel like part of the experience, this is it.
Bear’s Inn
If you’re happy to stay more remotely and you’re with a larger group this is where things get special. A private cabin in the woods, deep in the forest, with a traditional Finnish sauna, located on a lake - it is quite literally what cabin-in-the-woods dreams are made of. Bear’s Inn, in particular, became one of my favourite memories of the entire trip.
Octola Private Wilderness
If Arctic Light is practical and Arctic TreeHouse is atmospheric, Octola is on an entirely different plane. This isn’t a hotel, it’s a private Arctic experience. Deep in the wilderness, far from crowds, Octola is where you stay if you want Lapland to feel untouched and cinematic. Think glass-fronted cabins surrounded by snow-covered forest, complete silence, private chefs, and activities that feel curated only for you. Everything here is bespoke, from husky sledding and reindeer experiences to wilderness dining and Northern Lights viewing, all designed around your group rather than scheduled alongside dozens of others. It’s discreet, luxurious, and wildly immersive. That said, this is not the place if you want flexibility, restaurants nearby, or the buzz of town. It’s remote by design. You come here to disconnect, slow down, and let Lapland unfold quietly around you.
What to Do (and What to Do First)
Huskies
This is non-negotiable. Top of the list. If you can, book a private session it genuinely feels like you have the entire forest to yourself. The dogs, the silence, the rhythm of the sled cutting through snow… it stands out as one ir the most mind-blowing experiences in my life.
If you’re debating activity order: do huskies later. Nothing quite compares after.
Snowmobiling
Fun for both adults and kids, but a small reality check: in December, snowmobile routes are busy. Speeds are slow, and the experience can feel more controlled than wild.
It’s still enjoyable just don’t expect adrenaline. If I were doing it again, I’d schedule this before huskies so it doesn’t feel underwhelming in comparison.
Ice Floating
We cancelled this last minute. Floating on a frozen lake at −10°C in pouring rain, with no stars and zero visibility, didn’t feel magical.
That said, everyone who has done it in better conditions swears it’s unforgettable. Next trip, this will be one of the first things I book. Just know it’s entirely weather-dependent, and be flexible as sadly nothing is refundable, so it really does depend on your luck - we did a 2 hour drive (one way with three small kids) at midnight to see the northern lights and saw nothing. Expectations need to be manageable heavily.
Reindeer Farm
This one surprised me.
Run by a couple who have been doing this for over 50 years, the farm, which looks out to acres and acres of open land, has only recently opened to visitors and even then, very selectively. No crowds. No scripts. Just real people, real work, and a life that hasn’t been packaged for tourists.
The couple and their son do everything themselves. Feeding the reindeer. Chopping wood. Building fences. Listening to them talk about their life, a life they genuinely love, moved me more than I expected. It was grounding in a way that felt incredibly beautiful.
Ice Karting
Great fun, especially for kids as young as four, with separate tracks for adults and children. That said, it’s freezing. These go fast and the air whips your face. An hour is more than enough.
Bear’s Inn Experience
A remote lodge in the woods, complete with a traditional Finnish sauna, an ice pool, and a phenomenal private dinner cooked afterwards. This was a huge highlight of the trip - we arrived and immediately went to the ice lake, whilst we weren’t brave enough to do an ice dip, we dipped our toes, changed into robes and used the Finnish sauna. Pure winter magic. 
Santa: What’s Worth It (and What Isn’t)
You cannot go to Lapland and not do Santa. We tried three versions and I’ll be honest.
Santa’s Secret Forest
This is the one. If you do nothing else Santa-related, do this.
We booked a private VIP experience. An elf (fully in character, no half-hearted theatrics) picked us up at 8:30am from our hotel. We were driven deep into a forest where candlelight lined a snowy path, the sun barely peeking through the trees.
Inside a small cabin surrounded by trees and not a human or building in sight, gingerbread and icing were waiting. We were told Santa wouldn’t be coming, he was “too busy.”
He came.
And somehow, he knew everything about our children. Things we’d quietly briefed weeks before. We didn’t see another soul the entire time. No queues, no noise, just pure belief while the world was still waking up.
Santa’s Village
Commercial, busy and very overstimulating. Unless you book a VIP Santa session (yes, I know how ridiculous that sounds), you’ll queue for hours and it can honestly chip away at the magic.
Snowman’s World (made entirely of ice) was lovely, but if I’m honest? We could have skipped the village entirely.
Santa Park
Better than the village. Located inside a cave, with more atmosphere. Still not as special as the Secret Forest. If you go, book the VIP experience, it includes Elf School, gingerbread decorating, lunch, and a guided flow that makes the whole thing feel calmer and more intentional. There’s also an interactive ride which is great for very small children and a lovely short musical.
Northern Lights: A Reality Check
This one humbled us.
We booked a late-night tour, 10pm pickup, 1.5-hour drive to a frozen lake, s’mores by a fire, stars overhead. Sounds dreamy.
What we didn’t understand (rookie mistake) was cloud cover. Zero visibility. Zero light. We drove for hours to… darkness.
We returned at almost 1am with three exhausted kids, feeling slightly ridiculous.
Lesson learned: Northern Lights tours are a gamble. Book only if you’re emotionally okay with seeing nothing. Check cancellation policies carefully. Manage expectations ruthlessly.
Where to Eat (A Pleasant Surprise)
I was warned repeatedly that food in Lapland was terrible. I disagree.
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Koti – Casual pizza spot that looks unassuming but delivers.
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Bear’s Inn – The standout meal of the trip.
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Gustav’s – We booked a private igloo for seven — cosy, special, excellent food.
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Amarillo – Tex-Mex, old-school American diner vibe, kid-friendly.
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Polar Fun – Fun hotpot/noodle stop.
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Cafe Bar 21 – Reliable and warm.
What to Pack (This Matters)
December temperatures can drop to −20°C. Layers are everything.
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Base layer: Merino (top + leggings) from Uniqlo or Icebreaker
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Mid layer: Fleece (top and optional pants)
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Outer layer: Down jacket + waterproof ski pants
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Accessories: Double-lined waterproof gloves, beanie, balaclava
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Hand warmers: Disposable > electric (trust me)
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Kids: Ski suits (Reima is excellent), earmuffs + beanie combo
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Boots: Proper water proof snow boots with grip
I even packed hot water bottles. Some days I needed them outdoors. Indoors, everywhere was intensely warm.
Final Thoughts
Lapland was an experience of a lifetime, but we overdid it.
We ran from activity to activity, constantly checking the clock, knowing that being late meant losing money. If I went again, I’d cap it at two activities a day, max.
It’s cold. It’s demanding. Kids take forever to get ready. Everything runs on time. This is not a relaxed holiday.
But with the right operator, it works. We used Villa Escape, and they were exceptional, down to surprising us with a box of fresh samosas at 8pm in the middle of snowy Lapland. I still don’t know how they pulled that off.
Would I do it again? Yes.
Would I do it slower? Absolutely.
And that, I think, is the real magic. One major caveat though is that Lapland is extremely expensive - the experiences are very pricey per person and as they are weather dependent you can be in a situation where you’ve lost the experience entirely. Be mindful of what entirely depends on clear skies and what doesn’t and make sure you have a good mix of both. It is truly a trip of a lifetime and I cannot recommend it enough.
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